The talk of the travel town in the last year is how Burma has become a victim of its own success. How (apologies for the GCSE-level economic analysis to follow) demand has outstripped supply for guides and quality accommodation and how the country might be over before it has even begun as a luxury travel destination. Well, we can report from the front line and say that this is fortunately for all concerned not the case. Sure, the surge in Burmas popularity has caused teething problems, but the logistics are improving and the countrys legendary soul and charm are very much still in evidence.
In fact, wed go so far as to say this window (and who knows how many years it will last) might just be the perfect sweet spot time to visit. Heres why:
No McDonalds, no Starbucks
Yes, we confess, Yangon has a KFC, but the Golden Arches are to date, and mercifully entirely absent, and in a country with some great food, long may that last.
Luxury hotels (and liners) have landed
The supply/demand conundrum of recent years was worst when it came to luxury hotels, with the best (and often only) boutique hotels booked months in advance. The lack of capacity is one of the reasons for the huge popularity of the Irrawaddy and Chindwin River cruises. These luxury liners remain a seriously spoiling way to see the country, and the latest arrival – the Sanctuary Ananda – has upped the ante considerably, but back on dry land things are improving too. The biggest opening this year will be the elegant Sanctum Inle Resort, slated for a full opening in October, and with 96 rooms on lovely Inle Lake and (according to sources) ridiculously comfy beds. Existing hotels in Inle are also upping their game, such as Inle Resort, which is renovating and adding 180 rooms. In beautiful Bagan, Bagan Lodge a mere two years old anyway is adding suites to open this December.
ATMs!
While the fast food giants have so far been kept at bay, one pleasant modern convenience has arrived the ATM. Even a couple of years ago, travellers to Burma would have had to bring their body weight in US dollars to feed their new found lacquerwork habit, but now there are gasp cashpoint machines in Yangon. They even work occasionally.
Magical markets
Some of the main sites (Bagan, Inle Lake) are starting to feel pretty touristy – albeit not in an Angkor Wat way but its still eminently easy to get off the beaten track in Burma, and one of the best ways to do this is to visit a local market. A good guide (on which more later) can bring the whole experience even more to life and Burma is particularly famous for fabulous lacquerwork. The added bonus? In a country where the military junta has fingers in many pies, paying cash straight into the hands of a market stall owner is a wonderful way of benefitting the right people. The other added bonus? We can confidently say you will never, ever be hassled to buy something in a market.
(Even) better Guides
Were not for a second saying that the guides werent already great, but now they have a few years experience of dealing with Western tourists under their belt, the best got even better. Its absolutely true what they say about Burmese charm (you may never open a door on your entire trip), and a knowledgeable guide who can add the cultural context will always enhance the trip. A good guide should be able to explain Buddhist beliefs, change an itinerary on the hoof if required, order the local speciality in a teashop and talk with passion about the region because most will likely be local. What the guidebooks dont always mention is the famously wicked Burmese sense of humour, which youll soon experience from an English speaking guide!
The classic sights
Theyre still there. At the risk of hyperbole, the stupa and temple covered plains of Bagan; the stilt villages of Inle Lake and sunset at U Bein Bridge near Mandalay are three of the most iconic sites in South East Asia, if not the world.
Activities
There are also now a number of memorable ways to explore these memorable places. Think exploring Inle Lake by kayak or, for the ultimate in photographic safaris, taking a dawn balloon ride over the temples of Bagan with one of the worlds most highly regarded hot air balloon companies.
The beach
Even culture vultures get temple/museum legs eventually and in Ngapali Beach, Burma has a quintessential white-sandy-beach-with-palm-trees set up that often elicits the line Its like Koh Samui back in the 70s. For anyone old or lucky enough to remember then, thats a good thing, but like its Thai comparison its unlikely Ngapali will remain untouched forever.
Tom Barber is Co-Founder of Original Travel.
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